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Agi & Sam AW15

January 11, 2015

FashionLondonLondon Collections: Men | by Hannah Banks-Walker

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Regression was the order of the day at Agi & Sam. Having relinquished their Emerging Menswear Designer title to Craig Green at the most recent British Fashion Awards, the duo decided to return to their roots. Well, Agi’s roots anyway, as they travelled back to his hometown to unearth precocious collections conceived by a 4 year-old Mdumulla, before using Toys ‘R’ Us and local primary schools as their main points of research. While this might sound befitting of a collection ridden with gimmicks and a novelty approach, it in fact made for a cleverly considered offering of conceptual, yet incredibly desirable clothes.

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The pair’s trademark focus on colour and tailoring remained intact, but for AW15, it was an explosion of primary hues, splashed across oversized, deconstructed coats and loosely fitting trousers. The knitwear was produced in collaboration with Jaeger- reiterating the commercial appeal of this brand- and employed bold, Mondrian-esque colour blocking. Pockets looked as though they had been cut out and stuck-on, while those lego face masks not only made an explicit reference to childhood pursuits, they also emphasised the deconstructed nature of the collection, toying with the idea of building something, creating something new every time. It was a playful touch, and in many ways echoed the experimental forces of heavyweights such as Comme des Garcons.

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What resounded the loudest, however, was the duo’s energy and reluctance to take themselves too seriously. While this latest collection is as wearable as the last, the ideas behind it gave it a greater sense of appeal in some ways. The loose silhouette and riot of colour made it seem free of inhibitions, while the Velcro holding seams together gave the impression that you could change or amend the look at any time. It felt wonderfully temporary, which is, after all, the essence of childhood.

Hannah Banks-Walker

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Images: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com