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Alex Mullins SS15

August 17, 2014

FashionLondon | by Candid Magazine


Alex Mullins SS15 presents his interpretation of 1970’s Americana, which combines history and fashion to create a narrative through the garments. The story behind this collection is that of a journey, and each beholder has imprinted their forthcomings onto each item. It could be assumed from his motifs that Jean Michel Basquiat has had an influence on Mullins’ creative vision; this can be seen through his use of colour and style of patterning.7
Mullins has built a world for the collection in which a Native American Motorcycle gang reside in a Malibu trailer park, wearing worn down garments from past generations, each piece customised to represent a chronicle in their personal journey.

“This season I have been fascinated by a primitive ideology towards how to dress, using this fictitious Native American Motorcycle gang to explore an instinctive yet historically and culturally informed way of dressing. Endlessly imagining how these characters would repurpose the materials available around them” Mullins describes.

Presenting an interesting array of textile applications on hard, tough-wearing and virile fabrics to produce loose-fitting shapes with his signature play on proportions, Mullins constructs this collection by implementing colours and prints that feel affected by time, treasured and ready to have, “the slate wiped clean again by its new owner”. This is seen throughout the collection in the form of patchwork trousers and frayed edges on jumpers and outerwear. Unique brush-like stroke patterns are one of the more interesting elements to the collection as a whole.

One garment that stands out is Mullins’ take on a male playsuit; though this might not be the first time a designer has created a piece like this, he has added other qualities. For example, he has lowered the waistline by an inch, added an elastic band for ease of movement with some quarter-length sleeves.

18The top half of the playsuit is slightly loose, whilst creating a tighter silhouette on the lower sections of the garment. A V-shaped permanent opening reveals the chest, leading to three pop-and-snap buttons.
It appears the whole idea of this collection is ease of wear and though the thought of a motorcycle gang emulates solid masculinity, you can’t help but feel there is a feminine quality to Mullins’ work. Mullins hasn’t been afraid to use a variety of different colours and techniques within his SS15 collection; the colour pallet ranges from, deep indigos to bleached corals, primary reds and yellows as well as keeping the base clean with creams and whites.

Mullins has used to motifs across the entire collection; they bring it to life, helping add different dimensions and layers. This is heavily seen on trousers, where he has also lifted the length meaning they become ankle grazers but Mullins also offers baggy fit denim which again plays on his signature take on proportions. There is some disconnection between some of the garments, however this could be a representation of a break in time between the imaginary Native American Motorcycle gang members. After all, the life of a motorcycle gang member could never flow with ease despite life in the fast lane.

 

Jordan Siddall

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Images from London Collections: Men
NEWGEN: Men, SS15 Presentation
Photography- Rory DCS + Suleyman Karaaslan