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Angler at South Place Hotel
February 11, 2015
There is something quite special about dining in the sky, or at least in a glass fronted dining room with views of shiny modern rooftops. Angler at South Place Hotel is blessed with these views and is both elegant and affable. Just a year after its opening in 2012, this brainchild of global restaurateurs D&D London was awarded its first Michelin star.
The Angler interiors are chic and modern thanks to the Conran + Partners. The specially commissioned ceiling mirror piece by Grace & Webb reflects the outside light against the white of the cotton tablecloths and the vibrancy of the food quite smartly in the low room.
Executive Chef Tony Fleming, ex Criterion and Oak Room, ensures that only fish in plentiful supply from small fisheries arrive on the plate.
We opted for the three-course set menu at £30 per head. The Cornish fish soup with a side of DIY Gruyère, saffron and garlic mayonnaise was homely and smelled of the ocean bed. Not too dissimilar to lobster bisque it was rich and full of flavour. The mini pots of mayo, cheese and croutons were fun and we were encouraged by our friendly waiter to stack the accompaniments high and dip or float into the soup. The other winner on the starter menu was the quail and duck ravioli with creamed cabbage and pancetta. More like a fat generous dumpling, the textures of the meat inside were delightful. Slow and carefully cooked the flavours were fantastic; wintery, gamey and satisfying, we could easily have eaten a handful of these just by themselves.
For main we would wholeheartedly recommend the smoked haddock and mussel pie with quail eggs, leeks and spring onion. It was generous, creamy and tasted like a good fish pie should. We liked that it wasn’t deconstructed, or messed about with. Presented well in true comfort style, we were quite happy to eat it straight from its baking dish.
Overall the menu was rustic, flavourful yet elegant. Less tampered with in its presentation, we rather liked the honest price for our honest food. When visiting Angler, we would encourage you to allow time for South Place Hotel’s three bars, especially the Roof Terrace where lavender lines the space and where blankets and cocktails are plentiful.
The overall vibe, during the week, is predominantly a youthful city vibe but with the hotel’s art program and culturally led events, a waft of East London cool casually breezes in from time to time.