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Breaking All The Rules Of The Kitchen Does Flavour Bastard, Soho 

October 14, 2017

Restaurants & Bars | by Baldwin Ho


Flavour Bastard, dividing diners over more than how to best split the cheque.

You might think you’ve tried all types of cuisines, but up pops the latest food trend to hit London, ‘cuisine agnostic’. This is taking the idea of fusion cuisine further by creating a world of vibrant flavours, where rules and traditions are broken down and flair and creativity are encouraged.

The name of the restaurant itself is a sign of the daring nature of their executive chef, Pratap Chahal. He is the founder of That Hungry Chef and worked at some of the finest restaurants in London such as Gordon Ramsay’s kitchen at Claridge’s, Chez Bruce, Cinnamon Club and the Orrery Galvin Bistrot.

This is going to be the type of marmite restaurant that will repulse restaurant critics and traditionalist but will be celebrated by those Londoners seeking a breath of fresh innovation on the dining scene. The menu is helpfully divided up into tiny plates, small plates (with some dishes having the option to increase to a main portion size) and sweet plates.

There isn’t much point in trying to label the influences as you will see dishes like tandoori-fried chicken next to a tuna poke and then an offering of Caribbean-style mussels. One of their signature dishes is a cloud of curds, gram confetti, mint relish, guindilla chilli, and a dish from the royal house of Holkars in India.

The curd had a substantive feel, which is often lacking in vegetarian dishes (although using the word cloud might not be the most appropriate). The mint relish and guindilla chilli added an interesting mixture of coolness and heat to the dish. TFC (tandoori-fried chicken) wasn’t the best-presented dish of the night, but it was crispy, had gentle hints of tandoori spices and had a tangy white wine vinaigrette to contrast with the oiliness of the dish.

They use a variety of cooking styles and one suspects their meaty monkfish dish was cooked sous vide to give a monkfish a tender texture. Although the watercress cream was too light for my liking even if it is one of the healthiest sauces you can have for dinner.

Churro & ice cream was surprisingly the lightest dish on their menu with a petite churro, flavoured with rose petal marmalade and basil & pineapple. Those flavours could have come through slightly stronger, but the salted caramel & black pepper accompanying ice cream was a crowd-pleasing winner.

Flavour Bastard is going to divide diners’ opinions but you won’t know which side of the divide you are on unless you make a visit and find out for yourself.

Flavour Bastard is open from 12:00pm to 11:00pm. For more details, click here.

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