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Burberry Prorsum Spring/Summer 2016
June 15, 2015
Burberry celebrated the sun this afternoon by opening its show space up to the elements, the sides removed from its usual glass tent in Kensington Gardens. Guests including Mario Testino, Nick Grimshaw and a very dapper Samuel L. Jackson looked on as British musician Rhodes took his piano seat in front of a string orchestra.
To a live soundtrack of ‘Vienna’, Christopher Bailey’s SS16 Prorsum menswear took to the runway, and we watched in anticipation of what would be for spring after the glittering AW15 show, which GQ’s Style Director described as “the best menswear show Christopher Bailey has ever sent down a runway”.
Simple slim suiting, in navy and mossy green, was paired with lace shirts or transparent T-shirts, smarter patent bags mirroring the patent highlights on shoes. Cuffed and drawstring-waisted trousers gave a relaxed, informal twist to some suits with raffia used for clutches and the new Barrow bag – a document briefcase – adding a summer feel. Long, light, blocked colour scarves and lace ties made up the other accessories.
Cotton lace was the focus of the show, hence its name ‘Straight Laced’. In shirts – boxy and short-sleeved, or with ruffle fronts – it added a texture and delicacy that still managed to retain some masculinity, and was used on coat collars to tie Burberry’s classic trenches and macs into the collection. Other outerwear consisted of a cream lace car coat and light wool styles which were draped over shoulders. It complemented the women’s pre-collection that was included in the show, but couldn’t compete with it.
Animal prints – giraffe and zebra – were added in on knits and bags, which reminded us of Burberry collections past, a more abstract zebra-style print covering the trench coat that closed the show, in a light silk wool closing the show, the finale lacking the Instagrammability we’ve come to expect.
This was a very pared back offering from Bailey, with some beautiful pieces, simple natural colours and a relaxed effort taking the place of the wow factor that his shows – and certainly the last one – usually bring. For a brand built on outerwear, summer will always be a tricky season, and so we shall still look forward to winter.
Mikael Jack – Fashion Features Editor
(images: vogue.co.uk / cover image: Instagram by @lagoblu)