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Candid Reviews: Kym’s
February 18, 2019
Andrew Wong is a chef who can do no wrong at the moment. From winning a Michelin star for his eponymous restaurant in Victoria to the opening of his newest restaurant at Bloomberg Arcade, Kym’s. It seems everything he touches turns to gold these days.Whilst there is a slight hint of gold in places for this stunning looking restaurant, the predominant feature is an impressive five-metre fake blossom cherry tree which overlooks the entire room.
A cursory look at Andrew’s menu indicates his dumbledoresque powers in converting something as prosaic as pork char siu and gai-lan (Chinese broccoli) into seemingly high-end offerings. If you visit Hong Kong, these are the kind of dishes you would find in a typical cha cheng teng (Chinese casual cafes), but here you have well-to-do city bankers gladly lapping up these creations. However, casual these items might be, Andrew has created probably the best version of these dishes you will find outside of Asia.
Their menu has gradually evolved since their soft opening, but one of the signature dishes that has remained is the Three Treasure: crispy pork belly, soy chicken and Iberico pork char sui.
If you visit Hong Kong, these dishes would be the equivalent of sausage and mash or fish and chips; but the execution is so stupendous, you could be excused for thinking these are fine-dining dishes. The char sui has a delightful sweetness, thanks to the use of honey soy, the soy chicken is incredibly tender due to the slow poaching and the pork belly is as crispy as any pork crackling you will ever come across.
Andrew is one of the most studious chefs you will ever come across with a keen eye for historical detail and marrying it with modern-day innovations. The humble rice cracker is given a gigantic makeover here and comes with original recipe ketchup from 1908. Ketchup actually originated from the Far East and the word itself is from the Chinese dialect, Hokkien.
Small dishes and sides might be an afterthought in some restaurant but not at Kym’s. Silken tofu is as smooth as ice cream whilst the 100-year-old egg and garlic soy really adds punch to the dish. Tiger prawn skewers are covered with what looks like rice crispies to ensure added crunch and served with a tangy sweet chilli sauce and pineapple. Even a dish like french bean fritters is turned into a masterpiece with careful consideration on the type of batter used and expert sourcing of ingredients.
For more information on Kym’s, see here.
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