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December 3, 2014
In his second runway show for Carven, Guillaume Henry immensely held back on prints, embroidery and embellishments; check and minor floral designs were seen across shirts and outerwear. Be set for becoming a minimalist in SS15. It is said that Henry wanted to pay tribute to the young men of the world, striving to earn a decent living. “I just found them to be really relaxed and super cool in their different functional uniforms. I found it very inspiring …They were all blue collar workers. Training to be bakers or butchers” he said.
As simple as the designs are, there is no denying that Carven asserted its dominance amongst menswear designers with their SS15 collection. The simplified shapes of the garments were further accentuated by colour blocking across the male silhouette.
It would be fair to say there is a clinical air to the collection, as well as a coolness, through Henry’s use of white and blue; A virgin white trench paid an obvious homage to the inspiring butchers of Henry’s creative process. The same trench featured a number of times throughout the collection in a small variety of colours. The orange trench stood out for obvious reasons and made a welcomed addition to a monochrome collection.
Materials contrast: thick jersey, raw Macintosh canvas alongside lighter cotton shirts. Borrowing elements from practical sportswear, Henry has added delicate details to reintroduce touches of elegance into the grim and stiff environment of blue collared life. “Suits, coats, trousers and shirts take over streetwear colour codes and are adorned with zips and Velcro.”
Henry begins to introduce more minimalistic print in the form of sporty footwear; Combining Blue, green and orange through camouflage print panelling and colour blocking. Although Henry redesigns the traditional brogue by cutting the back quarter and replacing it with a thick buckle strap but also remaining close to the shoes roots by opting for a subdued black leather.
Overall the collection is striking, clean and sophisticated. It lends itself from the blue collars of society whilst remaining in the depths luxury menswear fashion. Henry has executed his designs with precision and much to the joy of the fashion crowd.
Words by Jordan Siddall