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Christopher Shannon Spring/Summer 2016
June 12, 2015
Day one of LCM confounded that the below-the-waist trends of SS16 are short shorts and the widest of trousers, which Christopher Shannon took to extremes. Opening with black trousers, which probably had a waist measurement of about 60 inches, were stitched to fit the sample size models, leaving the rest of the waistband gaping on either side. Layered with light knits and oversized denim jackets in blue and grey played on proportion in an unexpectedly cool way.
Moving on from his Tesco Value bag knits of AW15, this collection’s motif was lighters on jumpers, with ‘Damaged’, ‘Shannon’ and ‘Needy’ replacing the where it might say Ibiza on your holiday-bought BiC lighter. The first glimpse of the summer foam party influence was a fluoro bright bikini top around the necks and puffs of foam on the models’ wet hair and chests, and that’s when the fun began.
Zip-up shirts and sweats with zip-front shorts and bombers playfully flashed flesh, while joggers, jackets and shirts were slashed apart and held together again by duct tape. A mirror image T-shirt hanging from the back of another gave a thrown together, tied around the waist, college boy look. Sheer, lots of sheer, added depth to the layers and came in shirts and Seventies-style split-side shorts, and a short grey boiler suit which was perhaps the standout piece. Coats, some sheer again, were partially constructed, voluminous and seemingly made from the linings.
Fluoro pink, lime green, and bright acrylic jewellery – including more lighters – by Judy Blame added the summer party element to the grey, navy, black and white palette. Shannon’s collaboration with CAT resulted in chunky sports footwear, with the fluoro brights as piping and cut out panels – these were a lot of the audience’s favourite. Stepping back out from the dark Old Sorting Office showspace into the sun and humidity made us want to ditch this fashion nonsense and jump in the foam, preferably while listening to Sisqo’s Thong Song which closed the show.
Mikael Jack – Fashion Features Editor