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January 13, 2015

FashionLondon Collections: Men | by Mikael Jack

In a break from the seventies-heavy looks seen so far at London Collections: Men, CMMN SWDN’s AW15 presentation brought us slightly more up-to-date with a bit of nineties fusion. Taking their influence from the relaxed Armani suiting of the decade and combining it with the casual uniforms of the Manchester football terraces, design duo Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund succeeded in marrying the two unlikely partners in a very desirable way.
To reinforce their reference, the collection – blue, grey, black and orange – was presented on an AstroTurf pedestal. Oversized wool overcoats and slim pinstripe wool suiting featured white stripes that mirrored the line markings on the AstroTurf underneath. Another pinstripe wool was used on a coat and a biker jacket, where the two inspirations bonded – literally – with the suiting fabric being fused with denim creating a two-tone, two-texture finish. An orange bomber jacket was a bold addition and sat well with the more muted colours, and orange was used as a highlight throughout: Stripes on trousers, coats and denim; an orange knit peering from below a navy suit; and in the guise of a goal net which featured as an all over print and as a net jumper. 
It all felt incredibly fresh and surprisingly made perfect sense. Who knew Milan and Manchester were so compatible?
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Mikael Jack