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Convention Free Indian Cooking, Indian Accent Mayfair
April 16, 2018
The global melting pot that is London has always been a dream destination for restaurateurs worldwide. Opening a branch of their restaurant in the capital is often seen as reaching the pantheon of success. It was only a matter of time before Indian Accent, which has outposts in New Delhi and New York, was to open their wildly-successful restaurant in one of the most dynamic cities in the world, London.
The decor is decidedly refined yet understated: the green and gold colour schemes oozes class without drawing attention away from the food. The staff is efficient yet personable at the same time, especially the sommelier who not only takes time out to explain their lengthy wine list but is keen to get feedback from his customers.
One of their most talked-about dishes is in fact not on the menu, but served as part of the amuse-bouche: naan bread with stuffed blue cheese seems like an obvious enough crowd-pleasing creation, but no one seemed to have merged these concepts together and executed it with such excellence as Manish’s version
Puchkas is a typical Indian street food dish, here given an upscale interpretation with five mini-pastry variants where you pour in coriander, tamarind, pineapple, pomegranate and spiced yoghurt “water”. It is very much a case of also discovering what flavours amuse your taste buds.
The presentation here isn’t about ostentatious edible flowers but something more muted and elegant in tone and leaving the flavours to exhibit all the fireworks. A potato sphere chaat isn’t something I would order anywhere else, but it somehow works with white pea mash whilst Kashmiri morels, walnut powder, parmesan papad sets the bar for all future dishes that I describe as “earthy” with beautiful nutty notes.
The expertise with which their kitchen team executes the dishes is awe-inspiring; how a course of baked cod Amritsari can contain such delicate, sublime pieces of meaty cod is unfathomable.
The restaurant is a vegetarian’s (or even just flexitarian’s) paradise with dishes like winter vegetables, Sarson ka saag, fenugreek tart which is not only salivating but incredibly healthy with ingredients like fenugreek widely regarded as important in curing digestive problems and lowering cholesterol levels. Soy keema, quail egg, lime leaf butter pao is one of their most popular dishes and widely regarded as their best vegetarian dishes. The soya meat has the appearance of a meat dish and I dare say taste better than most meat dishes elsewhere and once again it also contains healthy amounts of fenugreek.
There is so much to appreciate at Indian Accent, I could spend pages extolling the virtue of the restaurant, but then again I haven’t tried all of their dishes, which reminds me I must make a lunch booking soon when their 2-course lunch set menu is extremely reasonably priced at £25pp.
For more information on Indian Accent, see here.
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