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Craig Green Spring/Summer 2016

June 12, 2015

FashionLCMLondon Collections: MenSS16 | by Mikael Jack

British designer Craig Green set the standard very high on the first day of the menswear shows. This is the young designer’s third solo show after graduating from MAN and it had some pretty amazing pieces for the 21st century man.

If you’ve been following Craig Green, you probably know by now that his collections are usually inspired by uniforms and workwear clothing of certain social groups or cults. In his presentations, which are just as much about the show as about the pieces themselves, you will find a certain connection between heaven and earth, physical and spiritual, human objectives and religious commitment. Like his previous collections, this year’s line has left the viewers full of emotions.

His bold colours guided us from the highly physical world of martial arts to the inner peace of Shaolin monks. Compared to his autumn/winter 2015 presentation, the designer chose colour bravely. Yellow, the colour of optimism and intellect was followed on the catwalk by green, a more peaceful, natural hue. Off whites and pale blues were layered amongst the yellow and orange brights. The detailing on the knitwear pieces featured two round holes on the chest mirrored circular openings on the man-sized shields the models were carrying, as a sign of surrender? Quite the contrary, this was one of Green’s strongest collections to date, and showed a real maturity with the additions of tailoring which mixed up his usual workwear aesthetic.

When it comes to shapes, the designer stayed true to his signature geometric layering with an addition of free-flowing materials, quilting and karate-like belts. Protection and vulnerability were in perfect harmony is his designs.

Adrienn Bardossy