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DAKS – What I Want To See More Of
September 21, 2017
A metaphor of the quintessential English summer: picnics and Pimms, pals and punts, proper and pristine, DAKS presented a collection that summed up the ideals of a bygone nation lazing by rivers in the long hot summers of the post-war period. This was a collection that channelled the England of H.E. Bates, but very cleverly avoided nostalgia and pastiche by using modern lines and cuts.
University-style blazers and boaters led us back in time. The wide-legged trousers that had started a theme rolling in New York the previous week were there, however they took a more traditional English form, loose and draped, yet retaining an aristocratic charm.
As ever with DAKS, the palette was muted but picked out those elements of the river bank soiree’s they alluded to – the whites of the fluffy clouds over the fields and streams, the almost stone colours of a pebble being skimmed across a slow and lazy river, the odd check here and there reminiscent of a cross-cut lawn, the stripe of a deckchair and the browns of a willow weeping into the water.
Each while steeped in the thoughts of an England that for the majority never existed, is finished off with skinnier versions of macs that men in the saloon bar would have wrapped themselves in against an April shower, or in a spy movie, collar up, huddled under a gas streetlight smoking an unfiltered senior service cigarette and watching a window. While the collection may take its themes from the past, today I sit here wanting every single piece.
Photographs by Rowben Lantion
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