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Fairy Tale Of New York Fashion Week
September 12, 2017
After having such fun writing my first New York Fashion Week edit and review I thought I’d take on that tricky second album, so here’s the pick of the latest menswear catwalk (yes, never ‘runway’ – still not backing down since the last article) looks from the week so far.
Custo Barcelona went bright and bold – lots of pattern, print, colour and youthful exuberance. There was a delightfully young feel pushing back at the tendency for some menswear designers to go a bit granddad-chic. Custo have been unashamedly thinking about the young folk with this collection. They were brave to take on the tracksuit (the graveyard of many a designer), but with this collection they have mixed fun and fresh with a slightly sporty edge. Hanging with friends at the courts is a perfect idea for this coming warm season.
Dion Lee burst out with a perfect take on the modern suit – great lines, great fabrics and sharp cuts. Now, I love old tailoring and have a collection of pre-‘70s suits but I always like to see them freshened up, and Dion Lee has added a bit of zest. Also added was a bit of the activewear vibe with some great colouring, especially with that beautiful almost emerald, hot summer, sea green that was woven in through the looks.
Eckhaus Latta stood out, as at first look, you may think these are quite traditional looks, but look again, notice the cut outs? This has been a trend in womenswear for a while and I’d been wondering if it would translate, well we have an answer, YES IT DOES. In skilful hands it works really well, adding a tease and suggestion of sexuality to the collection. That’s the thing about the trend, it has to be suggestion to work best; the question of what lays beyond is a tacit requirement in the construction. This is a REALLY CLEVER collection.
Philipp Plein on the other hand has gone for an edgy celebration of the male form. His collection shows the flesh on a frequent basis, but again in a way that avoids vulgarity and adds wow and impact to his looks. Alongside these, there were some fully-layered looks. Plein has been a fave of mine for a while and the collections all have their own verve, swagger and pomp, and to revert back to the earlier point, we need more of that in menswear; be braver designers, look how great it can be.
Parsons MFA at New York Fashion Week SS18. Photography by Monica Feudi / Indigital.tv.
To quote my hero Karen Walker in Will & Grace “not even Patty Hearst looked good in a beret”, but aside from that, a couple of looks from the Parsons MFA show really jumped out for me – playing with block colouring, layering and silhouetting, they again reverted to one of the main trends of NYFW so far: fun and fresh. Parsons can lay fame to being one of the great fashion schools, and I urge you to go and check out the whole of the multi-designer show. The future of New York designers looks very assured with the latest examples; it’s as bright as the blue of the layered look and to quote a famous New Yorker, Biggie Smalls, “s’all good, s’all good”.
Telfar at New York Fashion Week SS18. Photography by Rob Kulisek / Courtesy Of Telfar.
Telfar round us out today, throwing back to the ‘70s – an emerging trend kick-started by Paul & Joe that’s showing signs of sustainability. I often call the ‘70s the decade that style forgot, but the great thing about a designer revisiting an era is they can collect the good bits and spin them up into the magic that was missed before. Denim is a go-to classic and you should at some point in your life own a denim jacket. A great demin jacket is a casual classic and these scream brilliance – not Bryan Adams. I love the intricate print that gradually unveils its complexity the more you look at it. Designs that require more than one viewing to fully take in are great for a wardrobe, and this, simply put, is a great collection.
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