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Gieves and Hawkes AW15

January 22, 2015

FashionLondon Collections: Men | by Danny & Josh


Menswear Fall/Winter 2015-2016Presented at Christies in Mayfair, models stood upon plinths as pieces of art for auction dressed in Savile Row tailor Gieves and Hawkes’ AW15 collection. Shades of black, grey and navy with a dash of plum, Gieves and Hawkes AW15 provides us with a rich palette of texture and tone; a collection that has a garment for the day, the weekend and the evening, a progression if you wish.

The day suit has synchronising tonal qualities, soft yet structured leaving the gent in a strong and contemporary suit that assures a timeless quality. Dress shoes are hand burnished in dark maroon and navy over black, suits are paired with not just shirts but roll neck jumpers in burgundy, navy and black. The weekend takes on indigo and grey with thick cardigans and jumpers in cable knit cashmere, these are paired with delicate gloves for a weekend shopping look. Key items include a biker cut jacket made from pony hair with a shine that really defines the garment against the light. An amalgamation of the biker heritage and Savile Row’s tailoring, this jacket really shows the movement on Savile Row pushing these tailoring pieces into the contemporary.

Savile Row is well established with a rich heritage in tailoring, however with the change in market and rise of the high street with smaller luxury brands, Savile Row tailors are being forced into the contemporary to adapt or shut their doors. Near all tailors on this road are being pushed into this ideal yet Gieves and Hawkes are leading the way in creating a contemporary character – a requirement to open up to a larger audience specifically the younger client. The collection has to consider the daily suit, the weekend suit and the dinner suit wearer, which creates such a large collection for number 1 Savile Row. The collection also includes modern bags and a range of shoes both using luxury fabrics and skins such as crocodile.

Eveningwear is subverted with oversized herringbones and Prince of Wales checks, this is where the plum really enters with the three piece suits and also dark suede. Striped ties are paired with the evening wear and also light scarves under jackets. This noir collection empowers masculinity through texture, tone and a slick groomed look for any modern man in the city.

Danny Keeling, Creative Director

 

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