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James Long AW14 Exclusive at Browns
August 27, 2014
James Long went back to the future for his AW14 collection. Whilst it’s unlikely that we will recreate the Lego man look from the runway, where the models’ hair was cling filmed over and coated in electric blue, there is nothing we don’t love about the sci-fi odyssey that the collection is ready to take us on.
The season’s inspiration comes in the form of abstraction, futurism and “cosplay” – an abbreviation of costume play no doubt stuck in the designer’s mind from his time spent at sci-fi conventions, and his recent trips to Japan where a lot of the technical fabric of his collection was sourced. It was a brave move on for Long, who has pushed both menswear and his own boundaries with his attempt success of bringing a taste of anime to London Collections: Men.
The autumn / winter offering runs with the sportswear influence that Long is becoming as well known for as his knitwear, and continues with the mesh and weaving that he played with in the SS14 collection. There are no shirts this season, but what use are shirts in the future anyway?
Prints and embroidery on T-shirts, sweatshirts and polo neck knitwear inject some colour into an otherwise dark collection to which mesh, jacquard, leather and quilting add depth. Mesh runs throughout, on almost every piece – even down to the panelled baseball boots on the runway – sometimes airtex, sometimes leather, but always there. A jacquard denim which bears the same pattern as the omnipresent mesh provides a softness to contrast the other more high-tech finishes, this is then washed or rubberised to to create further textures.
The quilting however, is the standout and the triumph of the whole collection; it appears almost as alien-like armour, with irregularly sized padding on cropped sweatshirts, bomber jackets, mesh- overlain joggers, and a collection of bags in the most vivid of primary colours exclusive to Browns.
Every jacket is reversible showing the detail of the padded quilting through the mesh on its inside. Ideal should you feel the need to morph mid-afternoon, and who doesn’t feel the need to do that now and again?
James Long’s AW14 collection is available now at Browns and brownsfashion.com.