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John Smedley AW15

January 14, 2015

FashionLondon Collections: Men | by Mikael Jack


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The Swiss Church of London was the bright, white backdrop for Monday morning’s John Smedley AW15 presentation, but this was a very British affair. The brand, founded in Derbyshire in 1784, looked to its home for inspiration and focused on the area’s mining industry. In particular, Blue John – a local stone only found in this region – was the starting point for the colours and textures of the collection. 
 
This Blue John greeted guests as they entered, depicted on an impressive intarsia print knit with ripples of white, blue and black. The print was also used as a lining, in collaboration with Private White V.C., on a Harris Tweed bomber and a navy version of their iconic Twin Track jacket. Elsewhere, the blue base of the collection was lifted with other jewel tones, further referencing the mining culture and the treasures that could be found. Topaz, emerald and ruby tones – blocked or printed in geometrical designs – added opulence to the sumptuous knitwear while miniature cabling and ribbing added texture. The merino and cashmere wool itself was of a tangible quality, lightweight on the whole, and in a comprehensive range of crew and rollnecks, cardigans and knitted accessories. It left us thinking that maybe the cold wasn’t so bad, and next winter should just hurry up.
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Words by Mikael Jack