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LCM: Alexander McQueen AW’14
January 13, 2014
Sarah Burton once again took us spiralling down into the darkness at McQueen; the kind of darkness which whispers of danger and anticipation. In this sense the setting of the old Welsh Chapel could not have been more apt; the deconsecrated church on Shaftesbury Avenue once played host to the most hedonistic reprobates of London’s clubbing scene in the 1980s, but now only echoes of those times past as it stands ominous and empty.
The photography of John Deakin was a main inspiration for Burton, who digitally applied his images to t-shirts and trench coats, breaking up black jackets and trousers and inserting an element of street-style into her tailoring. Black feathers worn in the models’ hair crept over kohl-rimmed eyes as the dark checks and tartans appeared, greys and blacks eventually erupting into the pink tartan 3-piece suit: trousers, jacket and kilt, of course.
Blazes of gold in the dark palette first flashed up in piping on jackets and kilts, but were soon illuminating jackets in the form of thick lamé stripes. In short, this was everything you’d want from McQueen; beautiful clothes with moments of unpredictability and defiance. For a brief moment, the Welsh Chapel was lit up once more; this time by the burning and inextinguishable glow of McQueen.