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LCM: Astrid Andersen AW’14
January 7, 2014
Astrid Andersen has never made a secret of her preoccupation with the opposing forces of masculinity and femininity, and the dialogue between them in her own menswear collections. It must come as no surprise, therefore, that she cites fellow Dane Nicholas Winding Refn and his brooding, brutal cinematic creation Only God Forgives as her inspiration for AW14.
The film is a piece unapologetic for its violence and focused on revenge, yet embedded in a discourse of masculinity; there is a clear juxtaposition between outright aggression and a more sensitive, vulnerable approach. The director has said that he makes movies about ‘violent men who are very feminine in a way’, and the echoes of such a sentiment can certainly be seen in Andersen’s offering for next season.
The classic elements which have made her such a beloved addition to the menswear landscape were all intact: the unwavering hip-hop influence, the jersey, the overt branding, injections of sportswear – yet amongst all that were some unexpected elements which proved powerfully refreshing. Fabrics became more luxurious, even sumptuous when adorned with the swirling jacquard prints which wove their way through the whole collection. Icy blue satin and lace contrasted with the harsher, sporty elements of the collection; Andersen expertly manipulated the delicacy of such fabrics by applying them to more masculine silhouettes, with jackets knotted around the waist and greys and blacks forming a solid backdrop for the light lace overlay.
Silver bomber jackets and paneled jersey trousers managed to ground these trickier aspects, proving that the challenge Andersen poses is not in the wearing of her clothes, but in the understanding of the context in which they lie.