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LCM: MAN SS’14

June 19, 2013

FashionLondonLondon Collections: Men | by Danny & Josh


MAN is one of the most highly anticipated events of the season as its ability to place fresh and exciting talent to the forefront is second to none. This year sees the initiative enter its seventh year, a tenure that has moulded young designers to deservedly gain plaudits for their unique vision and build the successful careers of JW Anderson, Martine Rose and Louis Vuitton men’s creative director, Kim Jones to name a few.

Opening up the show this year was MAN debutant Bobby Abley whose tongue-in-cheek designs reference fantasy worlds, especially the hyper-realism of Disney. Medieval cartoons came to life in a mesh coat of arms whilst fleur-de-lis and teddy bear motifs ran throughout. Basket weave prints on shorts and t-shirts were playful yet wearable pieces in a collection simply defined by utopia and youth.

Irish designer Alan Taylor developed his concept of the fourth dimension by meshing garments together to cleverly conceptualise the male silhouette. Inspired by Charlie Porter’s recent blog posts, Taylor crafted jumpers and jackets that sat upside down which in turn juxtaposed the sharply tailored trousers or shorts they were paired with. Suiting cut from misty wools contained a sculptural quality and a lightness that upheld a restrained, classic elegance with a hint of panache.

Closing the show, Craig Green took us on a journey from control to chaos. Minimal shapes and layering opened the show but progressively transcended into a frenzy of acid house tie-dye ensembles.  The latter stage of Green’s collection had all the decadence and splendour of the 90s rave culture while being firmly rooted in the present. The main conversation starter however was the headwear; Green created abstract sculptures made out of cardboard sourced from the streets to cover each models face, yet beyond the wild spectacle was plenty of luxurious streetwear.

MAN showcased another strong and varied offering from the designers who each presented collections that teased the senses in every way.

 

Rhianne Sinclair-Phillips