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LFW: Erdem AW14
February 23, 2014
Following on from last season’s Swan Lake inspired monochrome collection, Erdem’s AW14 offering was heavily centered on black, with splashes of gold and metallic blue thrown in for good measure.
Referencing couture collections, the Erdem collection was exquisite. High ruff concertina pleated collars and delicate laser-cut embroidery featured on regal black velvet dresses and capes that would not have looked out of place in a V&A exhibition. Inspired by Spanish artist Valazquez, the baroque-style opening looks were brought up to date with inventive tailoring; sleeve seams were slashed, waists were cut out and the décolletage exposed under bondage-like straps on an off-the-shoulder number, with all of the above creating a modern approach to traditional Spanish dress, avoiding the costume party clichés.
Patent mock-croc leather featured on dresses, skirts and an amazing A-line 60s inspired cape mac, complete with a high concertina pleated collar to give it a hint of regency and regality. Gold botanical embroidered fabric was shown on dresses with inverted pleat skirts and a double-breasted, sleeveless mac dress. Metallic jacquard fabric in periwinkle blue, black and oxblood colourways was turned into tailored cigarette trousers and slashed-elbow jackets with oversized proportions. Classic Erdem embroidery in a botanical pattern featured on A-line, slashed fronted and off-the-shoulder shift dresses that were cut up with mesh paneling which added to the gothic romance.
Simple hair and make up let the collection do the talking, with each look finished off with a pair of Nicholas Kirkwood flats. One thing’s for sure: black is back, and Erdem’s AW14 offering is just divine.