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Liverpool John Moores University – I’ll show you how to do this, young!
June 18, 2018
Candid’s Fashion & Grooming Editor, Ross Pollard reviews the menswear from Liverpool John Moores University at Graduate Fashion Week 2018.
For regular readers you’ll know that I hold Graduate Fashion Week as a barometer for the future of UK fashion; it’s where we see the seeds of our future planted. So, over the next few weeks I’ll be interspersing my normal articles with a look at some of the standout stars of the season. First up is Liverpool John Moores University and their three menswear designers.
First up is Helena Green. Mixing tailoring with layering and adding in some bold pops of colour with striking prints, it’s a mix of themes that brought to mind the feeling of a supergroup formed from Bauhaus with punk touches reborn as streetwear.
The deep red shirts of that most wonderful of German electronic bands colliding with the braces and shorter trousers of the moment the Mod movement of the late sixties converged with the birth of The Clash. I also adored the graphic print nodding toward the Atari days of my youth.
The only trouble with making a music comparison, when I loved each look, is working out, if the six were in a band, which one would be the front man? Each and every one could have been the main man.
With Sian Evans again we saw tailoring, layered up into looks that had depth and statement – flashes of deep red escaping out from the more natural tones to draw the eye across each outfit. Mixing more traditional cuts and lines with carefully-placed oversized elements, the effect is one of depth and juxtaposition.
The longer coats are perfect for making an entrance, then once the outer shell they create is removed, the layering creates a complexity that produces a second set of styles to drink in. Layering is a complex art, I’ve seen many designers much further down their career path absolutely face plant when attempting it but Sian absolutely nails it here.
A second theme that so many designers struggle with, didn’t just get nailed, but got super-glued and riveted to the style board here is the androgyny of the collection. As we move into fashion forward times, this is going to be a huge change for our industry. This shows evidence Sian Evans is more than ready.
We round out the review with Hannah McAuley, and it’s a homerun for me. I’m on record saying how much I love wool. It’s a textile that doesn’t get the credit it deserves. Hannah McAuley has knitted up a storm. And also, a cape. Despite how much I love Edna Mode, I wholeheartedly disagree with her ‘No Capes’ policy, it should be ‘More Capes’.
The bright colours mixed with the texture that only wool can bring kickstart a collection that plays with elements of our rich fashion history and throws away the rules about cut, structure and length. We see the checks mixed, chopped and dispersed, carefully managed fabric changes clashed together in a symphony of highlights and notes of interest.
And as for that long blue statement coat with the giant yellow check, never mind the lamb on the catwalk, will you be making it in husky size?
Read Ross Pollard’s Graduate Fashion Week 2018 round-up here.
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