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London Collections: Men’s: YMC
January 8, 2013
‘Dead Inside’- the title of YMC’s AW 2013 collection was created in response to the frustration of modern culture. Designer Fraser Moss wanted to recapture the spirit of YCM when it first launched in the 90s, emitting an essence of post-punk rebellion. Clearly the focus was the beret, and stood as a symbol of revolution and freedom. There was nothing artsy about it. Trousers were loosely fitted in a variety of durable fabrics, often sporting feature zips and ankle turn-ups, all promoting a degree of functionality. However the top half was the real playground for YMC, where they included diamond-graphic knitwear, quilted puffers, checkered outerwear, and a double breasted suit blazer. The colour pallet maintained a stable utilitarian black and grey base, with hints of brighter notes throughout.
The majority of the boys had their ankles (and half their shins) exposing graphic socks, finishing in a variety of shoes including brogues, creepers, sneakers, and desert boots. This team was hard-edged, and about the cause.
They walked with purpose, and wore nothing of frivolity or ornamentation. There was even a revolutionist girlfriend amongst the men, yielding a pixie crop beneath her party’s beret.
Words by Stephanie Kukulka