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London Fashion Week Men’s AW17 Round Up: Candid’s Verdict
February 15, 2017
It’s not long until London Fashion Week begins this Friday (17th February). To get you fashion-week ready, our Tyler Kenny has written a round-up of some of his favourite shows from London Fashion Week Men’s in January.
Amidst the backstage chaos, Candid Magazine was one of few outlets given a post-show interview with Oliver himself. We chatted about the incredible link he builds each season between fashion and music. With The White Stripes on repeat in the studio, it was clear to see how that had translated onto the catwalk.
Oliver also mentioned keeping things rough this collection, with plenty of texture, stripes and chevrons to go alongside bombers, aviators and parka jackets. He wanted to add some toughness to the “pretty boys”. Besides scoping out some of the most directional (yet wearable) styling each season, we always turn to OS for tips on the all-important colour palette. With the added pops of pink and as Oliver described them, “Candy Colours” we walked away from the show with a fresh take on winter dressing. The show mixed burnt oranges with army greens, pastel pink with navy and forest and threw in some tartan checks with grey tweeds.
A mainstay of Oliver’s runway shows, is his commitment to diversity (both in race and age) on the catwalk, describing the OS customer as timeless, fearless and “every – man!”
Marking it’s second season on the OS runway was the “see now, buy now” aspect in partnership with mobile app VERO.
A venture that’s proving quite lucrative and impactful for the brand, in it’s first season alone. We’re eager to see how the union of fashion and tech, will develop over the coming seasons.
Elevating traditional work wear and sportswear were the prevailing themes at Casely Hayford’s AW17 show. The show opened with a model wearing a tweed Puffa jacket worn over a topcoat in a way that felt new, given the current mood for layering everything in menswear.
Elsewhere, jackets came spliced with plain wool in front contrasted by heavy embellishment across the back.
Trousers were cut wide and pooled at the floor, funnel necks also came oversize with added utilitarian zips -jumpers came cropped and striped, while others gained an extra neck hole, which appeared droopy peeking out from under smart blazers.
There was a real sense of play, and movement in this show and yet even with all the prints and polka dots this was (as always) a collection with a focus on dressing intelligent, grown-up individuals. For the second season in a row, this show featured both men’s and women’s wear.
Christopher Raeburn played with house codes for AW 17, camouflage prints appeared as cut out patterns, and plastic buckles normally seen on backpacks appeared as giant fasteners for coats and trousers.
This season’s signature rucksack came in the form of an iguana (lizard?) which popped up on the show invite and appeared elsewhere as an abstract camo motif on wool toggle coats. Aqua blue, khaki green and cool grey rounded out this collection of utilitarian pieces.
In addition to several new ways to up your scarf game, guests were also treated to a first look at the collaboration between CR and Eastpak.
Upon arrival at Belstaff’s show space for AW17 (Ambika P3) it was immediately clear what the season’s inspiration was the sea. Before seeing giant ‘Jolly Roger” signage came the smell! With oysters, fish cakes and fish soup on offer, it was a warm welcome in from the cold for those of us daring to set sails for Marylebone amidst the Tube Strike. Those who were looking for a liquid lunch would find it with spiced gin cocktails! But enough about the food & drink and onto the fashion…
In a classic nautical colour palette of red, navy, camel, and black came Belstaff’s static AW17 men’s and women’s presentation. Grouped on a set, modelled after a large steamboat, were models dripping in street style cool. Leather boots and trousers had high-shine, and peacoats came in new lengths with lapels that stretched towards the shoulders.
Fisherman’s knits were oversized and tucked haphazardly into both slim and wide trousers, while raincoats in shades of black and blue topped off weekend wear. The Belstaff AW17 was a master class in wearable fashion with a theme – a feat that’s difficult to pull off! We can’t wait to hop on board the S.S Belstaff when these pieces hit shops next fall.
Words by Tyler Kenny