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London Fashion Week Men’s Day 1
June 20, 2017
The fifth anniversary of London Fashion Week Men’s was not only treated to a welcomed helping of temperate British weather, but it successfully hosted an array of shows and presentations that put a spotlight on what London does best: fashion.
Tourne de Transmission: Words by Jeff Conway, photography by Isabel Infantes/PA Wire
With an edgy colour scheme of primarily blacks, whites and oranges, Tourne de Transmission brought their ready-to-wear designs in full force to London Fashion Week Men’s. With its loose cuts and relaxed fit, the latest designs from TDT have a rather youthful, yet very confident look about them. Being London Fashion Week Men’s 5th Anniversary, it is also TDT founder’s Graeme Gaughan fifth year since creating the line, and he and his team continue to prove why progressive fashion stores across the globe seek their eye-catching, distinctive designs.
Berthold: Words by Elle Magill, photography by Jeff Conway
The chief and reigning colour of SS18 is yellow. A colour not seen more than in Berthold’s SS18 collection. The yellow was anything but a mellow yellow, it was a vibrant contrast to the inky black of the oversized rain mackintosh’s littered with toggles and pockets. Geometric patterns in primary colours served the garments to make the black seem blacker and the colours even more striking. What better time to inject some colour in to your wardrobe than summer? The idea of lots of bright colours all on one garment draws to mind pictures of gaudy jumpers, but Berthold makes colour seem as effortlessly sleek and as stylish as black.
Barbour International: Words by Jeff Conway, images courtesy of Barbour International
Barbour International brings its casually-fitted, rather masculine designs to LFWM. Models stood and sat on varied levels of chairs and other industrial creations, while surrounded by hanging toolsets on the wall. Barbour embodies a well-constructed approach to the man of every type. With a clever zipper design and a relaxed presentation, the brand embodies a clean finish and sharp artistry.
Harrys of London: Words by Elle Magill, photography by Jeff Conway
For the sneaker-heads, Harry’s Of London has got it all. The luxury brand combines timeless craftsmanship, techniques and precision with contemporary styles and new materials. The collection that premiered at LFWM showcased their hybrid shoes; classic loafers in supple Italian leather with the comfort of the rubber sole of a sneaker – casual yet tailored. The palette of their collection was predominantly muted pastel tones. My personal favourite were the pair of classic trainers in a shade now commonly known as ‘millennial pink’.
Watch Lorcan London’s LFWM video, which includes both Barbour International and Harrys of London:
Nigel Cabourn: Words by Jeff Conway, images courtesy of Nigel Cabourn
Designer Nigel Cabourn has a knack for showcasing his very clear passion for vintage clothing, fabric and details and that was no less evident during London Fashion Week Men’s. His vintage nature went even further beyond his M/W designs, with a backdrop presentation including large vintage photos of army personnel out within nature. With his models wearing camouflaged, high waistbands and stylish jumpsuits to complement the surrounding theme, Cabourn created a gritty sense that remains appealing to even the pickiest of fashion-goers: rolled-up trousers, simplistic use of shoes and sandals and the intriguingly effortless wear.
Xander Zhou: Words by Tyler Kenny, images courtesy of Xander Zhou
Taking power dressing to new levels, Xander Zhou presented his spring/summer 2018 show, Xander Zhou Office Guidelines and Updates. While business casual may be the furthest thing from the usual Zhou outing, there were, in fact, some smart options for the office… if said office happened to be a 90’s redux. Always one to play to a theme, there was a sense of homoeroticism in the looks presented; think all-over glitter, pec cut-outs and rubber accents on outerwear. In keeping with the office theme, models were outfitted with earpieces and briefcases worn as backpacks. Despite all the camp and pomp, there were some really wearable pieces on offer. Zip-front shirting in bold hues, smart co-ords worn tucked in with fabric belts, and even denim and batik pieces, which appeared very grown-up.
BODYBOUND: Words by Elle Magzine, images courtesy of BODYBOUND
The aim behind the collection was to challenge masculine ideals and subvert the norms. Detailed blue roses and embroidered phrases reeking of rebellion, ‘we shall not wilt’, are intricately etched across the back and chest of the garments. Adopting a colour palette dominated mostly of neutrals, cornflower blues and soft-hued greys, the design duo that make up BODYBOUND artfully play with texture, knitwear, sheer fabrics and intricate embroidery to juxtapose the utilitarian silhouettes.
Oliver Spencer: Words by Tyler Kenny, backstage photography by Rowben Lantion
Never one to disappoint, the Oliver Spencer show was a master class in contemporary dressing for the real world. As always the ‘real-world’ element was highlighted here by the use of a diverse (in every sense of the word) set of models. Pale pink, chambray blue and shades of ecru and sand combined to form a palette that felt casual yet refined. Stripes, tonal shirts and suiting and ‘lived-in’ linen kept the collection fresh and aspirational. A homage to London, the Love Town show felt particularly apt given recent events with a positive nod towards better days in the uplifting soundtrack and final walk.
TOPMAN Design: Words and photography by Jeff Conway
With the name Transition” central to this latest exhibition from TOPMAN Design, the popular fashion company left no end untied. Turning their London Fashion Week Men’s presentation into more of an “experience” than simply a showing, TOPMAN strategically curated a series of collaborators to turn this exhibition into a visual journey. As guests were directed to walk into various rooms to watch different videos, ranging in themes of technology, diversity & human compassion, TOPMAN moved their focus from design to artistic expression. In the final room, a white platform was created with models standing & sitting around the area. Their oversized belted suit jackets, messy, wet hair looks and elastic-like designs brought out a very ‘80s London rock vibe in this latest collection from the ever-evolving fashion conglomerate.
Kirk Originals: Words by Rose Stewart, photography from the E. Tautz Quiet Life presentation featuring Kirk Originals
Masters of the frame, Kirk Originals presented their Made in England collection at the E. Tautz store on Duke Street in Mayfair. Guests sipped lager while they tried on the spring/summer collection – an ode to London. Iconic and suffused with style, the sixties are where this collection is firmly planted. Oversized geometric shapes in tortoiseshell wouldn’t have been out of place on Michael Caine in The Ipcress File, but are fully modernised for the contemporary wearer with technical lenses and an oozing of cool.