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London Fashion Week Men’s Day 3
June 22, 2017
In between luxurious downtime at the SS18 Grooming Room, day three of London Fashion Week Men’s delighted with presentations and catwalk shows, capped off with the 6th Annual FashionWorked Awards.
DANSHAN: Words by Elle Magill, images courtesy of DANSHAN
DANSHAN ‘uses the clothed male body as a way to explore how masculinity is formed and unexpressed through the education system’. This exploration is done through artful tailoring, clever layering, clean lines all with a schoolboy vibe. DANSHAN’s collection, which took us back to the classroom, is clever, uncluttered and sophisticated.
Alex Mullins: Words by Mikael Jack, images courtesy of Alex Mullins / Catwalking.com
We’re used to playing with proportion after Vetements taught us that no sleeve can ever be long enough, but Alex Mullins took it to new extremes.
Taking the hits from the his past seasons along with faces and bodies, which were photographed and printed onto silk, Mullins continued to develop the unconventional shapes and trompe l’oeil effects that we have seen in his previous two shows: painterly and hippy florals that complemented the bright solid colours and added flair to utilitarian pieces; the printed faces covering the models’ own with printed silk; and denim and sheer fabrics that were twisted and turned, with a floor-skimming sleeve or a waistband that travelled up the body. Bit weird, pretty cool, very Mullins.
Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO: Words by Rose Stewart, photography by Joe Simpson
From Nagasaki, Mihara Yasuhiro has the unique honour of being the first Japanese designer to show on schedule at London Fashion Week Men’s. In what has been nearly a global ode to Demna Gvasalia, Mihara’s spring/summer 2018 collection follows the code of exaggerated sleeving, a mash-up of badges and slogans, and ripped denim aplenty. While we’re all getting a little fatigued by social media, one of our favourite details of the show wast ‘#Nothing’ scribed across the front of a mesh shirt and ‘#BLANK’ embroidered on jackets. Flashes of metallic played futuristic against ’90s skate punk looks and oversized zips on jackets topped with berets had us harking back to our childhood weekend attire. It was all about messaging and when the models’ backs were turned ‘Blank Mirrors’ was colourfully sewn onto Ts and amalgamated denim silhouettes.
Richard James: Words by Mikael Jack, images courtesy of Richard James
Savile Row tailor, Richard James, stepped back to the Fifties for its Atlantic collection, which we soon learned was inspired by the other side of the ocean, not our brisk shores. Inspired by Ellsworth Kelly’s works, the pieces of relaxed tailoring and ready-to-wear separates spoke to The Hamptons and city boys – then and now – with looks in dusty pink, pistachio, stone and aqua.
Bomber jackets, shorts and knits added a contemporary feel while retaining the mid-century references, and the fabrics – also seen in the suits – were a perfect weight for summer.
Christopher Raeburn: Words by Mikael Jack, photography by Joe Simpson
“The same, but different, and always great.” That was our synopsis of Christopher Raeburn’s SS18 show as we left the venue. The designer’s utility approach always makes it easy to imagine wearing even the most outlandish pieces in real life, with a focus on sustainability that speaks to more than just the eco-warriors in the crowd.
This season, technical fabrics such as kite nylon – no longer fit for flying so remade as outerwear – and more recycled materials including leather and cotton were used, all pieces trimmed with (functional, of course) ties emblazoned with the words ‘Remade, Reduced, Recycled’. A footwear collaboration with Palladium featured a three-in-one mechanism that allowed the shoes to be worn as boots or sandals (of sorts) and referenced the 40,00-miles Gobi Desert to the Himalayas trek that inspired the collection.
Mesh, camo and cotton made up the outdoorsy-meets-raver looks in a palette of black, white, grey and orange. It was what we expect from Raeburn whose collections are always a highlight of London’s menswear shows – same, different and great.