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Magnificent Malan – Malan Breton SS19
September 29, 2018
Candid’s Fashion & Grooming Editor, Ross Pollard explores the Malan Breton SS19 collection, which showed on the catwalk over London Fashion Week.
Regular readers will remember that Malan Breton recently did an interview with me for this esteemed organ. We talked about his career, exclusively showing in London for the first time rather than New York, mango shaved ice, and of course I had a cheeky try at trying to find out about the collection.
Well, I failed on the last aspect, so it was with anticipation that on a very warm London evening I headed into Fashion Scout at Freemasons’ Hall to see the Malan Breton SS19 show.
Readers, Malan Breton SS19 was worth the wait. We were treated to a collection so good that even us jaded old fashion editors put our phones away and just sat watching the show. That happening is perhaps even more rare than a unicorn called Bert.
When I spoke with Malan Breton after the show, he described the influences: his grandmother, the films of the 1920s and of course his love of tailoring.
Where I come from we learn about earth
“I wanted it to be very decorative, especially for the men with all of those details and colour, but also I wanted those details to mimic a little bit of the temples of Taiwan. Where I come from we learn about earth and we also learn that we can create earth with architecture, and make it very solid so each structure supports itself, and I think in our society now we need that”.
Perhaps it’s the fact that Breton didn’t have formal training, choosing instead to come to the design side after a few years in fashion, but he builds his collections in a truly unique way: “When I create a collection the first thing I do is write a script; because I also direct films, I write a script based on what I’ve been inspired by for the last few months, and then I take that script and I’ll dissect it and I’ll start sketching and each portion of the script will become a piece of the collection”.
The story that that script told was one of light and dark, of the breezy happiness of buttercup yellow changing to the menacing blacks of a rebellious knight, the casualness of a street stroll to the party circuit of the ragtime elite.
It’s a true linking of today back to a historic moment
Many have played with the 1920s as a theme, but few have ever gotten under the skin of the influence in the way Breton has with the Malan Breton SS19 collection. This is no Gatsby-based pastiche. It’s a true linking of today back to a historic moment of fashion’s fabulous roaring twenties. F. Scott Fitzgerald is put aside for John Gilbert, Rudolph Valentino and Max Schreck.
I’m not a big cinema fan, but I could have watched this all day.
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