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Moschino AW15

January 11, 2015

FashionLondonLondon Collections: Men | by Hannah Banks-Walker

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From McDonald’s to Barbie, it seems there is no trope of American culture that Jeremy Scott is unafraid to cover in glitter and send parading down the catwalk. His focus for the new season? The archetypal Aspen ski holiday, favoured by the affluent elite. Only, in stark contrast to Tommy Hilfiger’s snowy womenswear offering from AW14, Scott turned it completely on its head, offering up an explosion of cartoonish patchwork prints, snow boots and ski goggles, with a healthy dose of bare chests and rock-hard abs thrown in for good measure.

If you thought the McDonald’s bags or the Barbie iPhone cases had redefined commercial success, they’re followed by the suitably kitsch backpacks and bumbags encrusted with jewels, the huge, oversized sling bags and the zebra print furs clashing with dalmation spots. There was Jourdan Dunn sashaying through the snow in a matching two-piece and Cossack hat, Moschino emblazoned across her middle. And she was, of course, the perfect companion to winter’s lumberjacks, denim-clad or half-wearing an incarnation of plaid trousers. Patchwork coats, lurid florals, a requisite shimmer of foil metallics in silver and gold and a furry slogan ironically claiming to be ‘100% Natural’, all contributed to Scott’s latest catwalk of camp excess.

As a designer, he continuously weaves his club culture references into everything he does, and with his unapologetic brand of loud, proud brashness, he has revolutionized the catwalk in many ways. He certainly pushes the boundaries of taste to their limit, poking fun at the elitist, stuffy perceptions of luxury fashion, infusing his designs with all the vigour and fun he finds it so effortless to muster. The irony of Scott’s collections, however, lies not in the witty slogans emblazoned on t-shirts, nor in their portrayal of taste, but in the fact that this new club cultivated by Jeremy Scott is as exclusive as any other. You just need to look the part to get in, which for AW15, will definitely require snow boots.

Hannah Banks-Walker

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Images: Marcus Tondo/Indigitalimages.com