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The Neighbourhood Restaurant Sparrow, Lewisham

February 6, 2018

Restaurants & Bars | by Harry Mills


They say the early bird catches the worm however in this case; you can skip the proverbial nonsense as Sparrow is definitely worth flying south of the river for.

Sparrow is a humble neighbourhood restaurant in the unlikeliest of places, that place being Lewisham. This defiantly unsexy locale was perhaps a surprising choice for husband and wife team Terry Blake and Yohini Nandakumar, previously of St John, Bao and Pollen Street Social.

The exterior is minimalistic and unassuming, a black facade and large windows which is mimicked inside to with copper light fittings, an open plan kitchen and wooden worktops.

The menu is very much focused around small plates which is what you might expect following the couples past stints. Celebrating seasonal British produce, the menu doesn’t focus on any one type of cuisine however.

Between the two of us, we order a variety of dishes after glancing around the room to see what’s popular. We started with soft boiled eggs, pork, anchovy relish and crispy shallots which was textually unusual but equally delicious. Bruschetta of mushroom and courgette trifolati was garlicky and flavoursome and went well with the bottle of primitivo which accompanied our meal.

A girolle, fungi risotto with goats curd was a bowl of joy, warm and creamy and the perfect choice for a winter’s eve. Grilled lamb chops were juicy, tender and slightly charred and came with a tomato and hazelnut salsa. We shared pickled Devon crab, coconut and Thai spices which was fragrant and morish; we both regretted sharing this dish almost immediately.

After fighting for the last of the crab, we took it upon ourselves to order two desserts, the first of which a beautifully well balanced liquorice tart which should have been too indulgent and heavy was in fact light and delicious. The second dessert was a kefir panacotta and baked pear which was equally as good however the skin of the pair was less enjoyable.

Often we like to show-off our local neighbourhood restaurants to friends or family and Sparrow is no exception to this. Praise be Sparrow, praise be.

For more information on Sparrow, see here.

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