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New York State Of Menswear
September 11, 2017
With New York Fashion Week in full swing I thought I’d share with you some of the looks I’ve loved from the first couple of days. While the women’s catwalks (it’s never ‘runway’ people, no matter how much I love Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn) have been getting huge publicity as ever, the menswear has been under the radar. This may be due to the crisis of identity that menswear is in. Does it sit as a different set of events or in the traditional weeks, or it may be that the volume of designers just hasn’t been there so far, but one thing is for sure, there are some great pieces out there.
Calvin Klein at New York Fashion Week. Photographs by Yannis Vlamos / indigital.tv
Alongside the traditional big hitter in Calvin Klein, some others caught my eye, but let’s start with dear old Calvin. I’ll always have a soft spot for the label. Those of us that were teens in the ‘90s will always be able to smell CK One at a thousand yards it’s so linked to the nostalgia of our teens, but here again, Calvin Klein have shown off what they do so well, playing with the classic, great tailoring mixed with a touch of the now in the tonal prints and checks lifting up of the suiting.
Kith have gone huge on layering and are in the vanguard of ‘edgy’ that’s beginning to creep into the usually wildly commercial feel of the New York week. They’ll keep you warm while you look cool. I can’t resist a chunky knit; it’s why I love a good charity shop. Kith manage to lift the soft and gentle misshapen look of the usual fisherman style jumper and add a chic edge with a more fitted balance as the foundation of the layering.
Matthew Adams Dolan at New York Fashion Week. Photographs by Edward James / Indigital.tv.
Matthew Adams Dolan has gone a touch Slenderman in the sleeves with his collection, but again the knits are superb and the deconstruction of traditional shirting, while not practical, adds an off-set dynamic that enhances intrigue and interest – is it cut like that or just not tucked in? You decide. There are also a few baggier-legged trousers dotted in the collection picking up on a fave vintage theme of mine: the 1950s wide leg. More of that please.
Rag & Bone have gone a mix of street toughs and grace. It’s a soft fabric-ed coated set of back-room-of-a-bar vibe mixed with lazy Sundays at the club in others. Again, the softer greys are here, pushing the return of blues for the most ubiquitous trend this season, but I can’t complain, as it’s a pantone I really like.
Trina Turk at New York Fashion Week. Images courtesy of Trina Turk.
Trina Turk also picks up on the soft check greys including it in her shorts and shirt looks that have an almost playsuit feel. I’m all for this. I think even my gradually more settled Ruben-esque frame is going to carry it off. They are set off against the more spring like block pastels and florals, which as I’ve told people more times than I care to remember, is a look more men should embrace. I will die on this hill, and what a hill it will be; covered in light greens, blues and yellows surrounded by flowers. Come join me.
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