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Plateau: A versatile fine-dining restaurant fit for the whole community
June 21, 2017
A journey into the banker’s world of Canary Wharf for a fine dining experience might seem absurd for anyone not wearing a suit and tie or having access to a company credit card. However, as we all know, there are exceptions to every proclamation. Plateau, which sits proudly on the fourth floor of Canada Place, is one of those venues where you should put up with the wheeling and dealings nearby to savour some top-quality produce.
The decor has the right mixture of whites and greys, which are inoffensive to most and ages well over time. There are well-polished white marble tops as well as giant art-deco lighting. One of the private rooms has a beautiful floral display in the summer months whilst the stand-out must be the window seats, which have an uninterrupted view of Canada Square. You do feel you are at the centre of the banking world with this vantage point.
Seasonality is key to all the dishes at Plateau. The execution tends to be unfussy with the focus on using expertly-sourced ingredients. Colchester oysters were succulent and filled with briny flavours of the sea. Whilst the Cornish crab was a beautiful artwork fit for any picture gallery with a perfect mixture of textures using avocado and Granny Smith apples. Often with crab dishes, you do find crab shells left in the dishes; however, in this case, all that was left was high-quality crab meat.
Where there was a slight misstep was in the poached halibut main course. Whilst the meat was sturdy and firm, it did feel overly-healthy and lacking in taste. It could have done with more of the chive sauce dotted around the plate. On the other hand, the honey-glazed duck breast was simply sublime. It had just the right amount of fat matched with a mouthwatering orange sauce and cooked to just the right side of pink. The portion size was just right if you wanted a three-course meal and also came with beans, onions and chunky fries.
For coffee-lovers, you can combine your post-dinner beverage of choice along with your dessert with their Kahlua cremeux, crispy coffee biscuit and espresso foam. It’s richly aromatic and guaranteed to keep you awake whether you are going to a business meeting or heading for a celebratory night out. If you want a more exotic tasting dessert, you can opt for the white chocolate, coconut dacquoise, macaroon, pineapple and Malibu sorbet.
You might be in the hunting ground of the bankers, but the only prey you will observe is the stunning food served on your plates.