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Restaurant Review: 24 St Georges, Brighton
February 10, 2016
Located in the heart of Kemp Town, a bustling area of Brighton set back from the seafront, with a slightly more mature and refined atmosphere, is the modern British restaurant 24 St Georges. Sourcing local and seasonal ingredients to curate an ever-changing menu, the restaurant is putting Brighton dining on the map.
Once noted for its fish and chips and candy floss, the Sussex city is now making a mark with foodies, as the emphaisis on British fine cooking slowly slips away from its London-centric model of the last few decades, to pockets of brilliant food popping up across the country – and championing Brighton is this place.
The menu is small perfectly formed with a variety of fresh seafood and local meats – the cooking is haute with a rustic twist and the presentation is spot on. Beef shin ravioli was succulent and moreish, and the goat’s cheese with fennel granola had the perfect oozy consistency.
Main courses of pork belly with apple and potato gratin, sautéed chanterelles and crispy trotters, and pan roasted monkfish with carrots, vandouvan, smoked pancetta and bacon jus were artistic in appearance and provided a spell of complimentary flavours – each dish had clearly been lovingly prepared and the food was creative in a deconstructed way – dishes bought back to the true elements, allowing for each flavour to announce itself clearly. Dessert was equally as exciting, with a hazelnut cake and brilliant selection of local cheeses – all washed down with Sussex’s own sparkling wine (which is worthy of any French seal of approval) and perfectly made espresso martinis. The staff were attentive and welcoming, providing any depth of knowledge requested.
Head chef Alex Boudot started his career as an apprentice at the age of 15, before completing his training in Burgundy. He then followed this with two years at Charcutier, before holding several senior positions in kitchens since 2006. He has been working the helm of 24 St Georges for a year, and has a promising future ahead of him at the restaurant as their international reputation grows.
24 St Georges has featured in the Michelin guide since 2011, was a runner-up in the 2014 Observer Food Monthly Awards and is a recipient of two AA Rosettes. Jamie Everton-Jones, at the time himself then a novice restaurateur and self-taught chef, opened in 2010, aiming to promote the best looking and tasting food in Sussex. On offer there is one hand the decadent 7 course Tasting Menu for £59 per person, or the Menu du Jour served Tuesday to Thursday and Saturday lunches, which offers unadulterated dishes from the a la carte menu two courses for £21.95 or three for £24.95.
By Toby Mellors
24 St Georges, 24-25 St Georges Road, Kemp Town, Brighton, Sussex, BN2 1ED. Meal for two including wine £80.