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Restaurant Review: Mustard, Shepherd’s Bush
April 22, 2016
Located a short walk from Brook Green and Brackenbury Village, Mustard Restaurant is a great addition to the SheBu scene, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner from Monday through to Sunday. The classic British Brasserie, named after the much-loved British condiment, has opened just in time for the arrival of spring, with outdoor seating perfect for sunny spells and light evening meals as the sun sets in West London.
Mustard is a stylish and clean-cut new venture by restaurateurs Lawrence Hartley and Tim Healy, responsible for the American-style restaurant Joe Allen in the heart of theatreland’s Covent Garden. With two spacious rooms separated by rounded archways, reminiscent of the previous Victorian grocery chain David Greig, there are no qualms with personal space. And the brasserie is fitting for larger parties, with several round tables making for a more convivial atmosphere. Our table was next to the lively bar area, where guests can choose from an extensive wine and cocktail list while experienced staff pour prosecco into Great Gatsby style coupe glasses, a nice change from the ubiquitous flutes.
Headed by executive chef Jason Wild, the menu offers something for everyone with both hearty seasonal favourites, such as the perfectly piped potato-topped Fish Pie, and light healthy bites of Roots & Wheat berries. With a well-priced £25 three-course set menu and a diverse à la carte menu, it was hard not to order everything. Vegans and vegetarians will rejoice at the generous choice of dishes in the Allotment section of the menu while there is also a section allocated to Naturally Reared Beef and Coastal Waters. We started our spring evening with the astonishingly fresh Devonshire Crab Salad, accompanied by crunchy chicory and a perfectly spiced creamy wholegrain mustard dressing, and crispy golden Lightly fried Cornish Squid, complemented by tartare sauce.
Staff were very friendly and service was speedy, with dishes arriving on beautiful ceramic stoneware plates in baby blue and light green crackled glaze, giving us dining ware envy and making the meal a truly pleasant affair. Our mains were the highlight of the evening: pan-fried woodland mushrooms with braised lentils and pearled spelt was presented like an enchanted forest, with a generous dollop of smooth crème fraiche harmonising perfectly with the earthy wild mushrooms. The green spring risotto, topped with crisp-like fried spinach, was a dream come true for those that encourage people to eat their greens. We recommend the rosé house wine with fresh and fruity tones making for a perfect accompaniment to the delectable dishes. Meal portions were big enough but who can resist a cheeky side of superb chips?
Thank goodness that dessert fitted around the sides; we opted for the warm rhubarb crumble served with custard, whose generous topping reminded us of shortbread biscuits, though we would have loved a bit more of the sweet rhubarb filling. The ‘just the right amount of gu’ flourless chocolate cake made for a lovely finale, accompanied by a large spoonful of rich clotted cream.
Without a doubt, we’ll be returning to this trendy new brasserie, which shows that British food is a force to be reckoned with.
Words by Hannah Brandler