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Review: Quaglino’s Sunday Roast
August 23, 2018
Located just off Piccadilly, Quaglino’s first opened its doors almost ninety years ago, first becoming popular in the 1930s. Candid’s Adam Zorgani takes a stab at the institution’s Sunday roast.
Still going strong today in its cavernous St James’ venue and staying true to founder Giovanni Quaglino’s original vision, its refurbished art deco interior bridges grandeur and taste. It’s a setting perfect for an elegant brunch accompanied by Bellinis and champagne. Perhaps less well known is the Q Sunday lunch menu which includes a genteel take on the Sunday roast. Cue the roast Hertfordshire dry-aged beef with Yorkshire pudding, roast vegetables and the promise of a British institution nestled with an otherwise continental menu.
Arriving neatly presented with the roast vegetables served inside a perfectly done Yorkshire pudding, the beef was moist, flavoursome and cut like butter. The vegetables were perfectly al dente and the portion sizing was deceptively generous. For all the current hype about New Nordic cuisine, sometimes happiness is as simple as a good gravy (or jus), and Quaglino’s delivered.
The beef was followed by the indulgently-seventy per cent Valrhona chocolate fondant with Tonka bean ice cream. A footnote on the menu advises to allow up to twelve minutes for this one as it is made to order. It is worth the wait. For those wondering what a Tonka bean is, it’s the seed of a giant tree from deep in the Amazon rainforest. With a vanilla and liquorice base and a top note of magnolia it was a perfect complement to the molten and just-sweet-enough fondant.
In short Quaglino’s, with its Italian name and predominately European-inspired menu, serves one of the best Sunday roasts in London. With three courses costing £29 and the option of bottomless bubbles for £22, the Q Sunday menu offers a very reasonable Sunday dining option. The chilled live music throughout the afternoon provided a reason to linger and take up the offer of bottomless bubbles.
For those nursing a Saturday-night hangover Quaglino’s Bloody Mary, featuring a home-made tomato mix is a must try.
16 Bury Street, St. James’s, London, SW1Y 6AJ – book now.
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