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Show Report – Jamie Wei Huang
February 18, 2014
The lights go up and the first model walks onto the runway slowly, straight-backed, slicked back light pink hair, hands loosely slung into the pockets of a long, wide-lapelled military coat. The play between masculine and feminine is immediately evident with the oversized male silhouettes and strong cuts paired with soft flowing fabrics and conscious tailoring to both reveal and obscure the female figures beneath.
The designer has always focused on exploring the character of contemporary women through clean refined lines with almost masculine qualities; this season is no different. Inspired by images of World War II refugees, Huang’s AW14 collection combines both necessity and luxury, visualising the dialogue between individuality and uniformity inherent in such a position, combining utilitarian touches such as tool belts and straps with creative pattern construction and delicate trimmings.
What stood out against the stark garments with their bold yet simple colour palette were the accessories: textured trapper hats and headpieces with fur and leather detailing; fur and fabric armbands fastened by buckled leather; geometric leather clutches casually attached to wrists; and heeled creepers.
As a whole, the collection was impeccably tailored, evoking menswear shapes which were in turn subverted by feminine detailing such as open backs on loose sweaters. Every piece spoke Huang’s concept while remaining desirably wearable for the everyday modern woman.
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