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Tiger of Sweden AW15
January 19, 2015
If we’ve learned one thing from this London Collections: Men weekend, it’s that sportswear and formalwear are no longer on opposite ends of the menswear spectrum. After playing with a subtle basketball theme in the brand’s SS15 outing, menswear designers Christian Lippich and Ronnie McDonald further pushed the limits of combining the two for Tiger of Sweden’s AW15 show this afternoon.
Opening with the classic tailoring the 112-year-old brand is known for, dark tones – navy, black and charcoal – in suits and overcoats featured subtle checks and stripes. Sportswear crept in on a coated sweatshirt, or an elastic cuffed hem on formal trousers, worn with monk strap shoes. A nylon bomber over a suit, a leather biker trouser paired with a shirt and tie were, or a zipped bomber featuring a circuit board print under a blazer were other examples of them subtly mixing it up.
Colour came midway through the show, in a seventies (again) palette of camels, burgundy and brown, with perfect slim-cut suits styled with fine knits and shearling. Then, after easing us in, the colour and proper smart-casual blend took off. A blue logo hoody under a camel suit, and the aforementioned circuit board print on a tracksuit covered with a multi-coloured check coat, were moments when the styling was questionable and try-hard (or perhaps not try at all). In its more subtle moments though – a pink nylon buckle belt holding up daringly high-waisted trousers, a blue bomber or clutch wth a dark suit, or a sweatshirt over a shirt and tie with leather high tops – the brand’s “scandicool” image got out unscathed.